Brushless Motors for drones (Eachine 1650KV vs. Racerstar 2300KV)

so here we have this drone three of the motors are of this type 2,300 kV and just one motor is of this type which is 1650 kV so one of this and three of these and the drone is flying just well it's flying both in stabilized and in Eco mode macro mode it puts a little bit to the left so that's stabilized so here's my old motor it's a racer star VR 22:05 and 2300 kV and that's a new motor that's an inch in two thousand three hundred and six and only 1615 kV so that's a lower kV motor that's a higher Kiba motor the shaft of this one is hollow but you cannot see through because there's a screw at the back there in the middle that one is not hollow that's a solid solid shaft another difference is the base this has this lower part the red one and this does not have an identical lower part that one is much smaller here you can see the wires inside the coils you cannot see them from below you can see something through these openings and the wire of this one is much thinner compared to that one this has thicker wires this motor is in pretty good shape but that one isn't bad so let's listen to it that's pretty silent listen to this one the bearings of this one are damaged I think by dust okay and that's a new motor that sounds totally different a whole motor here in the center had only a c-clip of course I removed that one once that's why it looks uglier another one has a screw there so that holds its share it's rotor only with a c-clip whereas this one of their shaft screw you can see here that the lower part is much wider than this one compared to this one the diameter is larger the wires are much thinner here you can see them that's a lower kV motor 1650 has thicker wires and higher kV 2300 as thinner wires the overall height is the same in this one roughly the screws that came with this motor are longer than on this one they said two sets of screws longer screws and shorter screws in the longer one the original of this motor are too long for the thickness of this frame so for example as you can see there is distance here between the screw head and the carbon fiber and the end of the screw it is already touching the black plastic so if you force it in you might damage those wires so I must use shorter screws from the old motor or put some washers under the screw head so that they won't enter too much for example here I'm 31 and as you can see in the end it's already in contact with I'm not sure what may be on the lower side it's making contact with something I don't want to force them until they reach the coil because it will short-circuit it and you are ruining the motor let's see on this side the end is already out and yes it's touching touching the wire so if your frame is not thick enough you might damage the wires with your school my short-circuited is the old school they are in line at this point new school as you can see it's longer so it might damage the coils and the wires are not too long for example this one barely reaches there to that point if it would be at least half a centimeter longer it would be better you could work easier it's okay for the right arm but not too okay for the left one by doing the wires of the red motor since it has a higher kV or thinner and on the right side which has a lower kV 1650 compared to 2300 and the diameter of this motor is one millimeter last we measure it you can see then this one is 28 millimeter and the next one the next one is twenty nine millimeter that's larger compared to this one and this motor is slightly taller than the one on the left one of two millimeters is higher this one the shaft diameter is identical so the old unit is compatible with the new shaft the whole advantage of this type of motors with this large opening here is that you can see how much that screw is entering and whether it's touching the coil or not because on this one you cannot know that you just tighten the screws and you're probably entering into the coil or not you don't know but in these you can see yes that the screw here is not exiting and it's not touching the coil these two motors should be reversed currently they are rotating all of them to the exterior this case is right and they're all right okay and they are numbered in this way so one two three four so I reversed the two and the four that's the two and that's the four okay so that using get a flight configurator let's close this one and open B already configurator okay we have to remove the propellers and we have to connect a battery so the batter is connected now that's click on connect so make sure you remove the propellers and were the yes is plug in the battery okay and after that click here to read setup and the two and the four should be reversed so yes u1 is normal to is already reversed so let's reverse it again put it to normal three is reversed and four should be reversed so in this case is normal no more reverse reversed and now right setup let's disconnect it connect it again just to check it read setup and it's the same normal normal reverse reverse to the settings were saved so before all of the motors were spinning to the exterior and this is spinning to the exterior but this was reversed its spinning to the interior also reversed is spinning to the interior towards the center it was not reversed by spinning outside so if you reverse the motor spinning direction from inside to outside you also need to reverse the two motors because otherwise the knot will fall off so for example if this motor is spinning to the left and then this knot cannot me tighten also to the left because if I hold this one and spin the motor and the knot falls off so whenever you accelerate your motor you will loosen your nut so reverse the two motors if you reverse the rotation direction of the motors

Eachine 1650KV motor ►

Test flight ►

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