How to Build A FPV Freestyle Quadcopter Drone // Diatone 2018, T-Motor F60 V3, Racerstar StarF4S

hi guys and welcome back to the channel so today we're gonna be building a new quad copter and this one's gonna be pretty much a beast as I believe it's gonna be absolutely insane one so for example let's just cut the motors that I'm going to be using I'm actually going to be using the T motor f60 version 3 these are 2500 kv so these just came out not too long ago and they also just came out with some newer ones however these were marketed as waterproof which is pretty crazy but they're all waterproof every motor is waterproof but um if a motor is not waterproof that means they had some kind of a defect in it just a little heads up you see here the lift wire looks pretty long pretty thick so they're pretty good this is this should perform absolutely crazy like insanely crazy because I've tried the eff 60s before those are sick and these should be just absolutely insane and hopefully they don't ruin our batteries so this one will be is removing the t motor F 60d versions 320 500 kV then you diatone 2018 Truex frame here and for flight controller I have gone ahead and salvaged a racer start star f-4s I do love these I'm still waiting on money to come in I just ordered two of these and two of the f3s and I'm in love they're really good and for the price just gonna be insane it's gonna be a very very clean quad it's gonna be very clean the staff inside now let me take into consideration this only takes micro-sized cameras and what I'm going to be using is this Chinese run camp and I believe this is from the same manufacturer as runcam however it's cheaper to only twenty bucks is the CCD everything it's the whole everything is exactly the same other than the size of the lens and this plastic thingy and that's it and this is a sixteen by nine camera so it's pretty cool I'll leave a link to this down below I'll leave a link to everything down below now for VTX I'm gonna do some a little bit different this time I have these akk which sent these to me and you might say oh this is the really raised a quads clone but it's not from the same manufacturer akk is the manufacturer and race day koala just does om there so that's just something to take note of so this is not a clone and you know just just clarify that so it's just going to be a basically a to stack and we're gonna have an X M plus receiver and we're done it's that simple it's gonna be insane so I'm debating on whether to power up the camera through the VTX or through the flight controller here so I think I might actually power them up through the VTX I think it's going to be a little bit better alright so let me go ahead and prepare everything and let's get started all right guys so let's go ahead and begin I've already started my soldering station a little bit of solder on it yeah we're gonna touch up all these pads all over again just because just to keep it nice and clean because this was a salvage board here and I love this board way too much alright so let's go ahead and we're just gonna start retouching up the esc parts here at the start a little bit of solder make them nice and shiny again alright guys so we're gonna go ahead and do the xc60 connector now and I'm setting up my temperature here to 450 450 degrees Celsius this way it'll heat up a lot faster and just pick up a lot faster and be better off for us so let's go ahead and retouch this together make sure the tip is clean here you see that how fast it's going so we're just wanna just add a shitload we need to be careful cuz there's a hole on the bottom that'll just seep through so you don't to put too much too much longer – see there's two holes right there alright so this should be pretty good we're gonna go ahead and grab some hemostats here wheres negative there's negative right there I need to take this into consideration because this is very important right now you want to when you put your xt60 connector you want to taking consideration because the USB is right there which is this is the only thing I hate on these boards is the placement of the USB is just total crap and we have to figure out the best way to kind of do this so I'm gonna kind of go off on an angle like so here you want to hear that beautiful crunching sound you don't want to slip that's for sure okay so we have our negative is in let's do our positive here so as you can see it's kind of spaced out yeah so it won't get in the way of the USB because I've had that issue before and it's very annoying at the same time I want to keep into consideration if our frame is gonna close or not because this is a very tight build here very very tight so let's go ahead and set this up like so come in all right it's beautiful so in theory this should go down here and should not get into the way of our USB as you can see right there which is perfect also all right so that's done let's go ahead and kind of double-check the frames gonna get in the way or not here so this would be like so well no we're perfect or totally fine here so that's awesome all right so that's done with ya what we're gonna do is I'm going to go ahead and bring the motors now we're just gonna start soldering in the motors and after the motors are done or should we just do the wires and get it over with no no let's do the motor so we're gonna do the motors first now and then from there we'll just take it and we're basically done all we need to solder is for the VTX and then the camera and the receiver and we're done it's just I love these boards they're just awesome and they do perform which is a hell of a big plus all right so let me go ahead and prepare the motors on the frame and I'll be right back alright guys so I've gone ahead and put the motors however there's something not've these motor screws are absolutely tiny that came with the t motor in our arms are six millimeters so yeah there was no way in hell they're gonna fit so how'd it go ahead and search for some m3 screws here alright so now what we're gonna do is I've put a heat shrink here blue just to keep it with the overall theme of the frame kind of so I haven't shrunk it just here we're gonna shrink into beta so you can see we have a little screw right there so I'm gonna have the first will actually go around it and we're gonna go ahead and install that one just like so just like that right there so give us some extra slack this the wire will get hard in the beginning so we're gonna cut around here I believe it's gonna be best and don't worry there's no real orientation of how these up wires are supposed to go you can always flip it in the software or you can also you just switch out any two wires and it'll flip the rotation of the universe so you don't have to worry in that perspective so it's just go ahead so slaughtered this guy right here see how we want this guy we want him to go in like so then pop up gonna be there so there's our first time which will be like so all right we're going on for the kid beautiful that came up to me serious like this and there's our first wire so now we're gonna add our second wire I'm just gonna have it be right there seems good I love the silicon wires they are I think one of the best inventions ever so know if you're curious about my soldering station the previous video was about it I've had this thing for over a year now and it's just me saying it has everything for the multimeter has a power supply so we can just apply power from our soldering iron here it's like built-in power supply thingy and we can just go ahead and debug and see if it's working or not it's pretty cool you could do a lot of crazy stuff with it it's pretty good it's add some solder to this guy right there so I think we're gonna power off the camera with the from the ATX I'll just think it'll make our life a little bit easier I'm not sure I'm just curious because also on a testy input on board filtration if there is any on that VTX alright so we finish one motor awesome take a look nice nice there you go so it's awesome take a look at it yeah so pretty satisfied I'm pretty happy with that looks very nice actually so it's gonna look even better once it's complete all right so I'm going to go ahead and skip over the rest of the motors he'll be back and we'll take it from there so now we're gonna get to V DX and the VTX we're gonna need power and we will need to set up the camera I've already gone ahead and installed the camera that's right here as you can see it's just it's very nice it's very minimal it looks very empty this whole setup here so let's go ahead and start soldering the wires for the V T X so let's just grab the wire here and if we plug it in here as you can see I mean they're pretty much color-coded so these will be the powers to the whole VT X right here so we're gonna give them power from right there and this would be the yellow is the video in from the camera or the OSD we're gonna put on the OSD and the red and little black are the what is it called the power for the camera we're gonna give it power we're gonna give power to the camera from this guy and what else do we have and this would be for smart port this green one if you wanted to be able to change your VTX through the flight controller bailiff I always so you can do that with this green wire here however I'm not going to install it because I don't want it so I'm not gonna install that and let's just start with the power now so let's go ahead and get this should I cut it like right here it's gonna be good only our silicon they're very beautiful wires right very tiny wires it's very good you know some big massive wires here should do the job just fine all right so we're gonna have to put them here and what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna actually increase my temperature here to 450 450 Celsius on my sorry my er so we can melt it pick up pretty quick so I'm waiting for it to heat up because I just dipped in some water to clean off the tip so just give it that little moment the camera bit here all right let's start with the positive here it's gonna be more than getting enough here I Steve this guy now all right so we have power to the VTX here and that should be good now let's just take a look at the wires here so okay we don't want the green one so let's go ahead and just completely remove the green one actually before we're gonna cut this whole piece off right here so that's yeah cut everything off all right so we're gonna remove the green one I don't wanna risk cutting the other wires next to it so I'm just gonna go ahead and pop it out there we go so now we're done here oh these wires that we don't need so we need now is we're gonna actually separate the yellow wire because this yellow wire usually if this would go to camera but however we have OSD here and we're gonna set it up on the OSD so where is the video and video in is right there if you can see that so as a video in right there and then we have ground and then video out so we need video out actually in video n goes to the camera so I'm just going to solve this guy right here to video out and walk do we need this this is gonna go in like so so I want to cut this guy up to here should be plenty enough so let's go ahead and do this one together so how's the video out right there which is vo right so that's in Mouse go ahead and grab the camera buyers so this is the camera wherever I remember correctly I'm just gonna quickly double-check this is it yes it's at 500 ground video correct color alright so this guy is what we will need for our camera and we're gonna give it positive from here but first this actually cut this guy in half there we go we're gonna put the video in to video in and worry about the ground and power for the camera so let's go ahead and do that beautiful alright a little solder this guy for a second I thought I was at recording I would have slapped myself so we're gonna go on the video in right here and be very very very very careful cuz in the day I popped a capacitor off and I had to put it back that's not what doesn't look so good all right so these are gonna be our power for our camera so let's just go ahead and just clean these up like so okay we don't want this to be too big so let's just bring this guy plug him in put him in okay so it's pretty clean the wire management so far camera is perfect long enough so now we need to do is connect these together here these powers and then all you have to do is just actually just saw her in the receiver and of we're good to go that's simple let's just clean up the wires here do the same kind of thing yeah just twist them it'll keep them nice and clean and along to tuck on himself so which is very nice also especially with these silicone lawyers okay that's good enough so we're gonna need some heat-shrink too once we put these guys together and let's go ahead and strip him down okay beautiful perfect hmm well since we already did read let's just go ahead and put these guys together okay and you see how they slaughtering tip looks like now it's not a nice Pleasant look it's because we forgot about 450 this is how you get this is how you ruin solder tips so she's gonna jump it down to 350 and I went for a little solder all right while it cools down and then just clean it up a bit because they soldered this is not lead free solder this is led solder so you know higher temperatures just burns it makes it all disgusting okay so these are good now so we can go ahead and do this to it okay very nice let's grab our lucky drink here let's just take this to the wire all right so we can put these two now so this is power to our camera from the VTX so we're going to be powering our camera through the 3d X because I want to see how good this VTX is and if a house filtration or it doesn't and I'm not going to be installing any of you start capacitor as a beginning test on this whole setup here because I want to see how it's gonna run let's just add some solder now this guy by the way it's snowing and I wanted to go fly the waterproof quad but I don't know what happened okay so let's just get our hot air going here we was shrinking the peat drink here so satisfied to watch it it's not satisfying your brain your head yeah just pissing yeah all right so that's good so basically we're done with the camera and yeah so the cameras done VTX is done what's left now dorsey right so let's go ahead and prepare the receiver let's remove this guy so we're done here that should be it really should we test a real quick before we go any further mm-hmm no let's just finish and then we'll come back at 2:30 I'm going to be using bait xm+ here a bunch of them you've been watching your channel because I love my QX 7 and the Fox car if you're watching I know you're watching my videos but where did the heat shrink go where did the clear heat shrink go for these really are you guys really going that cheap on us I mean it doesn't hurt to provide this with it it actually makes it more pleasant to work with anyways so I always forget which ones SBUs in which one slot stickers all right so SBUs is the square then it's 5 volt and then it's ground all right so that's awesome look at this this was left over these are silicon this was left over from her VTX cutting right now so in the camera so we're gonna use yellow for I suppose we're gonna use ground for ground then use red for 5 volt that should be beautiful all right so let's go ahead and have some solder on this guy hate this well so here's the five-foot wire nice where's the ground nice and here is the s was beautiful now let's start trimming up so I start with SBUs sense it's up top it's on the bottom yeah it's this one alright so I gotta string this guy off a little bit it's too long there we go so industries so this was s bus which was the square here I want to get a lot of from you guys because that just happened why she's the helping hands don't need helping hands for this just lost through your wires okay so there's s bus next on the line is 5 volt you like some wine its ground fennel correctly yeah if not then we're just gonna end up burning it and it'll be a pretty I'm finding all right so we are or good now let's go ahead and just make them a little bit nicer all right beautiful so scrub a little heat shrink and the hot air gun no satisfied although they're so much especially these feelings it's so difficult to find if anyone I was just really down there good alright so beautiful okay it's still kind of hot all right let's go here now let's see what's up so there's s plus 5 volt ground now for some reason if you had I bus let's just see you had ibises where people get lost if you put on s bus it would not work you see that right there you have our X 6 and this is T X 6 so you would set that our X 6 here for using AI bus and then you would say serial Rx on UART 6 and you should be good to go so you have a TX 6 + r x6 here so that's something take note of here he also have 5 volt and ground and LED here if you want to do so that that's also good there if you those and you have our SSI right there so yeah I should clarify a couple things for some people let's go ahead and cut these same length so it's easier first to solder first start with I suppose here after this that's it where you just boot it up check if it's working check I suppose his on what port because I had I bust last time running on it that's why you have solder right there on it and ya see what's up all right so to start with I'm gonna remove this guy here make our life a little bit easier I'm actually gonna start on towards the inside spirit because I don't want to hit any components so we're gonna start with SBUs right there just like that highly recommend use a small soldering iron tip and don't do what I do here all right so there's SBUs now we need five it is 5 volt and now we need ground all right so should be all good to go now we're actually finished now that's it so what I'm gonna do is actually we're gonna put it together take a look at it and the next episode we're gonna do everything from binding to flashing to setting up your modes and switches and all that kind of crazy stuff alright guys so it's complete here and it's just looking absolutely beautiful super clean I still have not will put its weight checked its weight just yet but um I really really love a couple things that you don't really notice until you build it on this frame which is absolutely insane mm-hmm for example you know you have the whole 90 degree tilt things so if you want to just do fix it up you can just remove two screws loosen this back on here and the whole thing will just flip back so that's very good now another thing which is super awesome usually you have problems with your pigtail and here the MMX port on the akk is retarded it's not that ninety degrees so when it plugs in it just takes a shitload of space going out however I was able to route it and then here I could play with this angle as much as I want until I get it perfect I'm just trying to hold him you should get up alright for example check this out this is by far my no it's something tiny but holy crap this will just so we became basically the angle on our V text to whatever we want and this is father I just love this feature it's insane you have you guys have no idea how many times I've had just problems trying to get this SMA and this is additive is well thought out this whole frame is well thought out however there's something also you need to take into consideration I don't think the aluminum is that strong felt like it was kind of starting this trip a bit on the bottom and that has happened to me on the previous ones like I don't want to spray I think it's already stripping in there so the aluminum isn't the strongest aluminum I could tell you that for sure it's it's it's pretty obvious right now that's something to take note of but overall it's nice just don't I guess tighten it too much but um it's a beauty it's really nice I mean for some reason though the tiny camera doesn't make it look like it has some fat balls below it but uh this thing's gonna just be insane here I came out absolutely beautiful I have nothing to complain about it's absolutely clean inside as you can see here at wire management just came out beautiful there what we're gonna need to do is just put some tape or some zip ties here I recommend tape so this doesn't catch and ruin your mood or well there's something also super cool about these motors they have these little plastic thingy and when you start then certain this is a very very difficult show you there we go that's a perfect angle right there see how the screw is coming in and that thing there's this plastic thing that's bending over and that's protecting that this is this feature is just amazing however you know one thing that tee motor needs to get straight is the C clips they should please get please remove the see clips and give us some you know you know just with some just hex driver it's going there break it up and clean up with them we don't put it back together I mean that's the only thing now T motor has been very reliable lately I've had the shittiest experience in the beginning with them but um I gave him a chance a chance to change the chance and everything is going pretty good the f40 SV threes were awesome they felt pretty strong but not super crazy strong they felt efficient but these should be on a whole new level these are just humongous so this is just gonna be insane it feels very nice and smooth so yeah so right now we're just gonna go ahead and next episode we're gonna go it through and set up everything here from binding to beta flied to just everything and then after that we're going to go ahead and meet me for its first flight so that's getting pretty cool to be honest I can't wait to get this guy fly and yeah stay tuned next episode I might announce him as a giveaway so you never know so just stay tuned and come back and maybe someone might win this guy so yeah I really hope you guys enjoyed it and if you guys have any questions or any suggestions feel free to let me know and I will see you next time see you guys take care you

Beware of Scammers Please Contact Only through My Email [email protected]
Taking it step by step building a racing/freestyle quadcopter .

Diatone 2018

The Flight Controller and ESC together in on board

The Motors 2500kv

2.1mm Lens

FrSky Receiver


I highly recommend these boards over 2 months of testing best money can buy

Racerstar StarF4S

Racerstar Star F3s

The HEX driver I recommended which i bought 2 sets of (Must have if your into building)

Batteries I use

Standoffs I find to be the best

Xt60 Premade I use

Heat shrink I mentioned

Soldering station

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Song Used


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Paul Flint – Savage [NCS Release]

Paul Flint

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Song: Distrion & Alex Skrindo – Lightning [NCS Release]
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Download/Stream: ID: dj2938hd298hflahsknckdfhsidufh9398

50 comments on “How to Build A FPV Freestyle Quadcopter Drone // Diatone 2018, T-Motor F60 V3, Racerstar StarF4S

  1. ASympleResponse

    I am making my first build with your recommended Racerstar StarF4S, however I intend to install a Holybro Micro M8N GPS for return to home features (hopefully) but I wanted to know where on the the StarF4s would I solder wires for SDA/SCL?

  2. Elon Musk

    to be honest, i like freestyle with heavier quads and stronger motors, just because they are just so much smoother than those tiny things that are so dang jerky.

  3. Jon Pacheco

    Thank you so much for including flysky rx install because most other channels only show Frsky and with your videos I was able to setup my Flysky rx! Thanks again!🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽

  4. Wyvern

    With M3 fasteners I only tighten with my thumb and pointer finger on the driver, don't go crazy. I just built a Plus version today, its a tight build no doubt and the frame goes together like a puzzle, just hovering it today I can tell this thing is going to scream.

  5. Virtual Willis

    What screws did you use to secure the camera to the frame? I ended up picking a runcam micro Swift 2 and the screws that came with it don't seem to be getting enough bite, the same is true for the screws that came with the frame, they just seem the tiniest bit too short.

  6. Martin Arial

    Just a quick question. Is there something on this build that would prevent from the camera to be mounted at Zero degree? (Cause all my quad are setup for reverse flying in 3D)

  7. Mike C

    Hey DM! Great video, as always. Since you asked for input, I would like to recommend the following:
    1. You always complete the soldering and then cut to the final build. I think it would be very beneficial to see the final assembly, as I have found that routing the wires to make it all neat is a huge part of the build (e.g., mounting the RX antennas, and so on).
    2. When you make a rare soldering mistake ( like bridging a cap in one of your previous builds), you cut out the fix. I would love to see how you handle those problems, as I have smoked a board in a similar situation.

  8. ApexGaming

    Can you do a video setting it up on beta flight and flying it ? I️ just ordered the parts to copy this build and it will be my first 5 inch quad and first build


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