HOW TO BUILD A RACE QUAD – 5S for $99! – S225 Beginner Build Video



Skywatch AI insurances on-demand and anytime you need it check out the link below I'm Justin Davis and this is drunk am sorry what's up guys I'm Justin Davis welcome back to my channel today the shop is fully loaded with race drones and we have a new one here this is the S 225 it just came out and it's gonna rock the boat once again because if you're thinking about building your first race drone you can now buy a $99 race drone that's capable of a 4s battery or a 5 s battery so the 5s $99 race drone is here and it's really wicked it's actually a lot crazier than the one I showed on the channel last week already we have something better than what we had last week it's crazy from week to week to week we're getting newer cheaper and more powerful components all the time this guy has 35 amp es season here capable of that 5 s battery they are 32-bit vol II es es you got a 1200 t VL camera on here and super-thin replaceable arms and an access on the bottom of this to your flight controller if you need to pull things on or off only four bolts holding this top plate on so really easy to work on no strange build process here it's very straightforward and very simple I'm gonna walk you through the entire build process now before we get started if you'd like to click on my patreon link down below and support me in the making these videos for you guys that would be extra special and we can share messages together I can message you along the way if you're working on a build I can help you out with that it's like a dollar a month so pretty cheap to keep the lights on in here and the channel going and all the support coming back to the community so I really appreciate the guys that are already doing that and as a bonus on the channel I'm doing all kinds of giveaway so you gotta check those out we're giving away this new frame this month and complete package there without a radio of course but it's the eye flight eye h3 long range 1080p super awesome cinema fpv style drone that's going to show that picture to you here right now and the Emax baby hawk our pro which is super popular in the community so we're giving back to you all you have to do is make a comment down below in this video or any of the videos in October we're gonna do the drawing coming up on November 2nd so super important that you make that comment let me know where you're from and why you'd like to fly fpv but let's go ahead and get started now I'm going to show you some of the tools that you need to build this race quad and I'm gonna get you started step-by-step we're gonna go through this together it's very easy so kick back relax and enjoy the build tutorial on the S 225 guys here we go alright guys let's go ahead and get started first thing you'll need in your build kit is some VHB this is 3m VHB you can get this at Home Depot it's about six dollars a roll it's awesome stuff you also need a set of hex drivers and we usually use two and three millimeter for the hex bolts that go into these quads and the popular TS 100 portable soldering iron and this thing is awesome you can plug into the wall or use a portable field battery a lot of people love those little irons are great and you'll need some type of ratchet driver for putting down your motor nuts and maybe a torch or a heat gun if you're brand new also you'll need maybe a razor blade and you will want a small set of Phillips head screwdrivers for the small screws and last but not least go to Harbor Freight get yourself this set it's a 127 piece heat shrink tubing assortment it has the little tiny heat shrink in here this is great for tiny wires and your antenna wires also the larger ones go over top of the arms for holding down the ESC so that's super awesome stuff now this is the box of the S 225 comes in you do get a set of Jim Pam props in here which is super nice so they do that I love these props they're actually pretty decent and these props are actually fifty forty two's it's only one set but you're gonna want to buy some more props because you're going to go through props if you're brand new to flying fpv race drones it's just inevitable that you're gonna break some props but these things are quite durable now let me show you what's also included in the box and first up we have the frame kit this is all the hardware and everything you need to build up your frame we're gonna build the bottom part first and then we're gonna work our way up as we go you also get some sky star stickers in the box and these are the motives of 2204 2300 kV and they are counterclockwise and why's he also have these bullet nuts on the top we're going to take those bullet nuts off we're not gonna use these bullet nuts so you can probably just throw these away I don't use them a lot of times because they do have a tendency to fly off the quad and you can crash your quad because of that so we're gonna use the included lock nuts they came in there and these are the low-profile nuts just go ahead remove those bullet nuts and set those to the side we're not gonna need these at all during this build and go ahead and grab one of your lock nuts now and you'll notice that they did mix up the threading on the color-coding on these the Bullitt nuts were different so you'll see that this silver nut is going on this clockwise motor right here which would have normally been the blackbullet nut kind of confusing but that's the way they did it for this particular build so you'll notice here that counter clockwise has the black nut the silver nut and you get two bolts for each bottom of the motor so we have the larger bolts we don't need the real big ones now this is your VTX pretty nice it's a cyclone and it is 5.8 running up to 600 milliwatts you have your button right here to change channels and bands and your MMC x connector right there this is your antenna that's gonna snap onto it these are great and this is ass much smaller antenna way smaller profile now the great thing about China is sometimes they don't label things correctly and this is a case of that this says sky starts and this is actually an omnibus f4 SD flight controller so if you're looking for the schematic on that you can find that on the Internet I'll try to find the link for this but you're gonna Sauter up your esc wires here and let's look at this the LEDs go right on this rail right here these three are for your LEDs right here and down below that we have video in and video out you're gonna do your video your positive there and your negative as you can see those first three tabs right there and just up from there we have the video in that's gonna be where your camera goes so you're gonna have the negative the signal and your positive wire right there and I'm gonna show you that coming up and the soldering job and just walk you guys through that at the very top up there you see the word boot those two little tabs right there need to be bridged if you're going to reflash this board I usually reflash it before I start my bill so solder up both of those two tabs and you can reflash it with the Omnibus f4 SD firmware inside beta flight so that's going to be the target for this particular board now if you're looking for the buzzer in the kid they didn't include one but you can add one right here by adding a red and black wire with a buzzer on the end and this is the receiver side you notice the jumpers right here three volt and five volt if you're running a DSM receiver DSM X you want to step it down to 3.3 by soldering these two tabs on the right-hand side of these three if you're running S bus and an F our sky receiver you can just leave everything the same you also have an Rx one tab right there so in the box you get some sky stars ble 32-bit 35 amp ESC s these are supposed to be able to run up to five s and they do have an LED lets you know they're lit up you have three motor tabs on the very bottom and we're gonna remove one of these wires on the very top part I'm going to show you that in just a little bit but if you're trying to flash these make sure you're using the 32 bit configurator otherwise you're not going to be able to flash these or update them or even change motor direction so make sure you're using the 32 bit configurator when you're trying to change motor direction or flashes you'll be good to go otherwise it won't connect to ble configurator now next up we have a variety of assortments and accessories that come along with this we get the pretty typical stuff we were battery pad this is your camera and your camera cable and the little screws that go through the side wall plates for securing your camera down we're going to show you this a little bit later but let me show you this camera up close it is a CCD camera running about 1200 tvl which is a really nice image and this little cable just plugs in just like this you've got your five to 12 volt right there on the far left hand side ground and the yellow wire is usually going to be your video signal and we're gonna snip that end off and solder it down to the flight controller in just a bit so now we're going to open up our frame kit and set our hardware to the side we're gonna organize these into individual piles so that we know where everything is this is usually the first thing I do to check out a new frame if you've never built four I mean you just got in the mail it's usually a little bit odd to put it together the first time and I'm gonna walk you through that so you don't make the mistakes that I did when I was first putting these pieces together so just go ahead and lay everything out they do have what appears to be three millimeter bottom plate this is your bottom plate and the next plate up will be for your flight controller and that bolts are just gonna go through right through the holes I'll show you in just a little bit what's really cool about this bottom plate is the fact that it does have spots for a 20 millimeter stack or a 30 millimeter stack you can see the outside holes right there in that square or 430 millimeter and the inside holes are for the 20 millimeter stack so super cool either way you want to go there you can use either type of flight controller but today we're gonna use the one that came with it and this is the front end right here you see those two slots for your camera mount and this is the back end for the battery wires to go through and I'll show you how to set that up a little bit later alright guys so let's go ahead and start with step one we're gonna go ahead and grab this plastic hardware right here is two standoffs for your flight controller and grab one of your m3 bolts right there and your driver so we're just going to take this plate right here and we're gonna put the bolt through the bottom and I'll show you where it goes right on the outside right there and then you're just gonna take that stand off and screw it down to that bolt by hand at first you can take your driver and tighten it up a little bit later but what I love about this bottom place they put a hole through the bottom place we can access that if we need to remove that that's really important some of the old frames out there don't have that option so go ahead and grab your next stand off and if you're building right along with this video this would be nice I'll show you just how it all works out right there so now we have to those and we could take another bolt put it through the bottom right there and yours should look like this don't put them on the inside stack because you're your flight controller is a 30 by 30 millimeter squared so we're gonna go ahead and take one last bolt put it through right there one last standoff and go ahead and screw that down with your fingers and now at this point if you like to you can go ahead and take your driver and now this bottom plate it's gonna go just underneath there just like this it's looking pretty good there we can grab one of our arms and start to put our hardware through so you have two different types you have a shorter and a longer bolt and I'll show you where those go so go ahead and grab the bottom plate in your first arm and what we're gonna do here is line up these holes so you see just like this and only one of these holes is gonna work out for this top place so there's not actually three bolts that go through there is only two so that's kind of confusing to you but go ahead and take one of these lock nuts right here and these are flush on one side and they have a little drop down on the other just make sure the drop down part goes into the carbon so it sits flush on the top of the frame and that'll have the correct threading direction so go ahead now and you're gonna grab the shorter bolt of these longer ones there's a longer one but that one goes on the inside so make sure you have the correct bolt if you see say like two millimeters coming up above where your lock nut is that means that you have the wrong bolt in there and then when you grab a shorter one to put on the inside part it's not gonna work out for you so make sure that you have the correct one and it should be just flush with the top of that stand-off nut right there that little lock nut and don't tighten it all the way up yet we're gonna leave it a little bit loose so we can get the next bolt through there and still be able to move the arm to line the hole up so don't crank it down too much so now you get your arm lined up nice now grab the longer bolt and the longest one will come up through the top of the frame if you have one of the shorter ones and they're only a few millimeters apart but it makes a big difference here and put that longer one through there and sometimes if they get stuck you can kind of wiggle it through there or get your driver now I have this larger standoff I'm just gonna tighten that down now I can give it a couple turns not too much you can put a little bit of Loctite on this if you want wherever you have a metal to metal connection same thing on the arms but I've rarely ever had bolts come loose off the frame parts we're gonna save some Loctite for putting on the motors now we can grab our second arm and we're ready to do the same process on the second arm just like that can you see those two holes there so we're gonna grab that lock nut sort of snap that down inside the frame there and remember that that's sort of a shorter bolt not the super short ones that's for the top your top plate would get that lined up see if I can get it perfect there push that through you can hold this lock nut down with your thumb while you're trying to put the bowl through and you probably got some music going at this point and kind of just chilling out take your time on these builds the more time you take on a build the better your quad is gonna turn out if you're not enjoying this process the hobby might not be for you I really do like to to build things you know put on some tunes and just jam and build and if you need help it's always awesome to build with a friend if you have someone that you know that already races build a quad with your friend that already races and you're gonna have a much better experience because you're gonna get really frustrated if you're doing this by yourself if you do have to do this by yourself hopefully I'm your friend helping you out during this build I'm gonna try to give you guys all the advice I can offer you during this process so it makes it smoother for you guys now I'm just going to show you a little close-up of what this will look like I took that one stand off back off real quick we see how flush that is that's what it should look like close up so these bolts are two different sizes there I'll just grab this other one so you guys can see what they look like next to each other if I can get the right one there and you notice there's only a slight difference the longer one goes where the metal post is going to go up the shorter one goes to the locknut and so now I'm gonna grab that longer one like I showed you before and I'm gonna go ahead and feed that through again and you're just gonna repeat this process all the way around and this time it's on the inside part get that to focus and see how much it sticks up above the frame so you have plenty to drive that standoff onto if you use the shorter ones there won't be enough nut sticking up above that that plate to secure the top of your quad then it might actually pop off I've used bolts that were too short before during build processes and that's kind of what happens the same thing for motor bolts if you use motor bolts that are too short they can pop off if you use motor bolts that are too long you can actually fry your motor so you want to make sure you're using the right size motor bolts on your build otherwise the first time you plug in your quad zap there goes your motors if the bolt makes contact with the copper coils inside the stators you can destroy your motor so we're gonna go ahead and finger tighten down that one now I can grab another lock nut go ahead and drop that in there and I figured out during this build that it's easier to do this stand off the metal stand off post a longer bolt first and then do the outside one next just kind of holds it in place a little easier for you to drop that lock nut down in that countersunk hole that's looking pretty good there I'm just gonna just barely tighten those up for now get them nice and snug don't over tighten them it's a big deal not to over tighten stuff especially where you've got the metal ones going into the plastic right here you can see that's the back end now we're gonna do the back arms like I was saying don't over-tighten metal into plastic because you will definitely strip the plastic threading and that's where your flight controller was gonna sit so we're gonna take another one of the longer screws now run the longer bolts and run that through the inside hole there this one right here just gonna press that through there it's kind of a pain but once you get your first arm on it's usually goes a little smoother after you get the first one on because you got something holding the whole sandwich of this bottom plate both bottom plates together so we should be able to see there a hole and get that lined up on the back I believe it is different here than the front so let's just double check to make sure that I've got this right there we go now it's right the first time we looked at it you couldn't see through the hole so if your holes line up correctly it should look like this so now you can see through that hole so now we can go ahead and drive that bolt through there with no problems before it wasn't lined up correctly it was facing the wrong way and that's gonna happen to you too I still make those mistakes myself don't be too hard on yourself this is all about fun all about the hobby it's so cool to build something up that you built yourself and take it out the first time and line-of-site fly it the first time that means not wearing your goggles your first test is gonna be without goggles very important because if you have a wrong motor direction these things can violently spin across the ground I've had one fly hat my car and flew under my car and just barely missed my car and me and I usually do flight tests out in an open field somewhere with not no one else around so dogs animals people I don't ever flight test inside parks where there's gonna be lots of people around especially children and everything is nice and snuggling that third arm and now I can go ahead and finish up my final arm there now that you know how to do that you should be this far along as well on your build I'm just gonna go ahead and slide that in there and that's lining up perfectly so you're should look something like this in the back you want to see those two parts touch and upfront as well if they don't line up like that you probably have it wrong you need to come in and sort of sandwich together and lightly touch there in the middle okay I'll grab that longer bolt again drive that up through the bottom and you're gonna take your your metal post your your aluminum stand off now it should stick up just like that you know you've got the longer bolt like I was showing you guys before get that camera to focus there I'm just go ahead and grab that stand off and we're gonna tighten that stand off down and this camera is just not really focusing right now is it so you're probably done with yours now and we can move on to the next step guys now another nice tool to have is some helping hands and I bought the more expensive ones here to hold my flight controller and my XT 30 battery harness go ahead and grab your TS 100 and turn it on just by pressing that button and now you're gonna stick it in the steel wool there and you're gonna clean off the tip really well make sure it's nice and shiny on the end and put a little bit of solder on there and I'm using a fume extractor you see that smoke flying into that tube over there on the right that's sucking it down into a carbon filter system that keeps all this smoke out of my face because this smoke is pretty bad for you guys just to let you know you want to you want to use some type of fume extractor so he's good not to breathe this so you're just gonna work the soldering iron around the wire and you want to see it start to sizzle if you have to use a magnifying glass that's a good way to look at the wire and one way to tell that the wire is nice and hot is to you'll you'll see that the solder actually starts to melt when you touch it on the other side of the wire not directly to the soldering iron so once you touch the 60/40 solder to the wire and it melts when it touches the wire you got a nice hot wire so now these look nice and tinned up and they should be nice and shiny and if you have to redo it a big deal you don't want huge blobs hanging off these wires and you can kind of use your soldering iron to pull off a little bit of X of excess solder if you get too much now I'm going to zoom into the tabs and take a look at this a little bit closer up here we we have a couple things going on here for your battery terminal batt plus is gonna be your red wire that negative is going to be where your black wire goes and this is the bottom side of that flight controller so it's a flight controller and pdb all-in-one in the old days we had PD be below it and we ran wires up to power the flight controller and all of our ESC wires went to a separate board completely a separate PB fast-forward to 2018 and now we have p DB flight controller combos what we call an a i/o and OSD and everything else included as well so just run your pin around the tab don't put too much heat for too long to these tabs because they can't separate from the board so be pretty careful about that you want to make sure they look nice and shiny too when you're finished and you can go ahead and take it off of your helping hands and just take a little closer look at your work make sure it's nice and shiny if they look dull then you didn't get a good contact for your heat to the tab that's very important so you can see the the wires gonna come in underneath here it's gonna look nice and tidy so now we can go ahead and solder these on to the bottom of your PDB whoops so I'm going to come in just like that make sure that you have the right wire going to the right tab positive and negative right there that's very important you'll fry it otherwise so now I have it back in the helping hands and we can go ahead and take the TS 100 put a little more solder on it make sure you clean off the tip in between each solder so we're gonna heat up the wire first because the wire takes a little longer to heat up now the next thing you're gonna do is press your pin into the tab surface area and go ahead and get both pieces of metal hot if they're both not hot you won't have a very good connection you get what's called a cold solder and it's gonna look kind of kind of tarnished it's not gonna look shiny so again heat up the wire first spin that wire around a little bit heat up the whole wire and the TS 100 is nice because it's fast it gets in there and it does the job really quickly and you don't have a lot of pressing involved older irons used to really make me mad because they weren't quite hot enough this one gets up to about 400 C I have it right now set to about 380 see that's Celsius so that's super hot almost 800 degrees so that's looking pretty good now both of these are shiny and I can go ahead and take it off my helping hands give this a little bit of a tug just to make sure that things are seated properly you don't want to pull on it too much because you can break this PCB you don't want to break that board and we're gonna show you how to secure those to the quad frame in just a little bit later so you don't have a battery fly off and pull these two tabs off that's very important for your build positive here negative there and we're good to go and one thing that didn't include was a capacitor kind of a shame that they didn't include a capacitor but you can probably live without one we flew for years without capacitors now you can do this two ways you can grab some wire and you can solder the red wire and the black wire to this and put this capacitor somewhere else inside the frame or you can do it the quick way which is just to solder it to right to the battery terminal tabs and you want to make sure that you have your positive and negative properly set up on here if you get it backwards you can fry your capacitor so go ahead and clean off the tip again and add a little more solder on to the end of your iron and we can kind of tin up these capacitor wires on the end here before we start we can add just a little bit of solder onto each of those let's go ahead and get it nice and hot put a little bit of solder on there because solder is transferring your heat to the metal now clean off the tip again and go ahead and get ready to put the first wire down into the positive side there so if you don't have enough solder on your pen at first it's going to require a little more solder to transfer the heat properly so right there I didn't have quite enough solder on the tip so go ahead and liberally put some solder on your iron just gonna make this a lot easier and if you do this for too long your terminal wires gonna fall off and we're only just just barely dinning the surface so to speak putting this capacitor on there now you could try to do this all at once when you're doing this larger battery terminal wire but it seems a little bit hard for me to do it that way so I usually come back and just add a little bit of solder later and just gently work the heat in there and get it placed right you don't want it to touch that chip directly behind it so my wire did move a little bit but everything is good there everything is a-okay now we're gonna Bend this other wire up and the wire coming off the capacitor is quite rigid so you're gonna need to bend that pretty good with your fingers or little pair of pliers if you bend it in the direction that you're gonna solder it that helps a lot so you generally just try to bend it as flat as I can get it flush with where I'm going to right there and just gently it's a little tiny pool right there you don't have to heat the whole thing up that's looking good and pull back toward yourself kind of like that if you get some little shark's teeth on there you can kind of just redo it until you get the way you like it or you can trim it off but that'll do for now that's looking pretty good okay so now to the next step at this point you should have already flashed beta flight 3.5 to this board and you're going to do that by putting those two boot buttons up at the very top right there you're going to bridge those with solder and remember you're gonna flash the Omnibus f4 SD firmware and you can do flash on and connect inside beta flight so at this point we're ready to put some solder down on our ESC terminals and we have motor one there you can see em one right there so now I have the first one done just spread your pin around don't overdo it because if you bridge tabs you're going to short out one of your ESC s and you don't want to do that you can see these white lines in between the tab it's kind of a visual reference it gives you a way to see that there's no solder creeping over to the next tab next to it you want a liberal amount of solder and just be really careful on that Center one for your signal your signal pad right there is in the center that's gonna be the white wire coming off your ESC now I can do this top part and we're gonna remove the black wire the ground wire some people say you need it a lot of flight controllers say you don't and this one happens to be one because there's no pad for your ground wire coming from your ESC so I'm gonna show you how to snip those off and I've been building for years over five years now and I've never had an issue with not using that wire so you can see these two pads right here are pretty close so you just want to change your angle and your soldering iron and make sure that you're not bridging from one side to the other this is a real critical part right here so I'm changing my angle right here coming in from the top trying to spread that over without touching the other pad this is where you a magnifying glass might come in handy you can see here it's even a little bit hard to tell if I've haven't bridged over to the next tab right there I almost did it so it takes a little bit of finesse but this is not super hard work right here this is just getting us set up and now we can start soldering up some pscs if I can get it to focus real quick you need to double check your work and make sure double triple quadruple sure that nothing is bridging right here you can see everything is on its own pad even up here at the very top where I was concerned right there no solder is bridging over same thing for the signal and that positive pad right there so this is looking pretty good now we can go ahead and grab our es CS before we do that flip your board over and right here this is something that I should have shown I had to go back and redo this part because my power wasn't working to my VTX now on the very bottom of this board there's two jumper pads video in and video out make sure you do the right hand side right there and you put a bridge right here between these two tabs on this side so make sure that this is done otherwise your VTX won't get enough power that VTX the video transmitter I'm going to show you in a little bit it needs more than seven volt to be powered so a seven volt or up if you don't do this you're not going to get enough voltage and you won't show any power on your VTX so let's go ahead now that we have that bridge and put the flight controller down very surprising to do an entire build and then come back and find out that later so I wanted to make sure I had this video absolutely correct for you guys now I'm just putting on where I think this is gonna go and kind of check out your placement looks pretty good see that harness right there we're not gonna use that one actually and this is facing forward and this is the back right here so it should look just like this now we can set our ESC on there we're gonna figure out where we want it on the arm that looks about good right there and we're gonna trim these wires off just a little bit past each tab so we have enough room there a lot of times what I do is I push them down on the arm so I get a little bit of slack just in case I need it if you make a mistake it's always good to have a little bit of slack if you do make a mistake you can slide the ESC a little bit closer now temporarily you could just take a piece of electrical tape and kind of just put it around your esc to where you think you want it on the arm and we're gonna take that off and put some heat-shrink there in just a minute that's some of that Harbor Freight heat shrink which fits right over the end these arms it's awesome because you can wait till after you install the arms to put the heat shrink on this arms normally you would have to put the heat shrink on first before you put the arm on because the end where the motor mount bolts down to is it's just gonna be a little too big to get the heat shrink over and these arms are designed so that you can slide the heat shrink over the end which is neat and you're just gonna trim off these wires just a little ways past the tab okay just a little ways past the tab there so you have a little bit of slack I usually push them down to the arm and then I pull the wire up over the tab and past and that just gives me enough slack and if they're too long you can always twist up the ESC now go ahead and you're gonna grab some wire crimps there and just crimp off the end just about like that it's good there you're gonna do the next one and you can also get these at Home Depot every quad shop should have those for getting this plastic coating the smaller wire so you just just pinch off with my fingers that usually works pretty good there it's now I'm ready to tin these up so you're going to go ahead and clean off the tip and add some more solder on the end right there you want to see it sizzle the smaller wires are really easy and the nice thing about this ESC wire is that the larger ESC coating over the wire is silicone so it's not gonna sit there melt on you like the white wire will momentarily melt because it is covered in plastic not sure why they used plastic on that one silicone on the other ones but I like the silicone better cuz it doesn't melt on you when you're doing your solder is even at like seven and 800 degrees kind of amazing stuff let me see it start to sizzle just a little bit and that's tuned up and ready to solder down to the pad now you're gonna do your first one and your first one should be the positive wire on the outside I usually work from the outside in that way I'm working away from this plastic post at the bottom of screen right there if you touch any heat to that plastic post it will melt and mess up your threads so keep that in mind you want to keep your iron away from those plastic posts cause you have to replace that post now I cleaned off the tip again and I'm ready to go ahead and solder down a signal wire that's your white wire it's looking pretty good make sure that the wire doesn't pass too far past your tab so it doesn't touch any other chips on the board and make sure it's properly seated on the tab that looks pretty good though bridging of solder from one tab to the next very important at this step you don't have anything bridge so my my wires just a little bit short there so what I need to do is I need to take off my electrical tape and I need to move this ESC forward just a little bit so if you cut it too short don't worry too much you can always just kind of move it forward just a little little bit scrunch up that red wire right there and you don't want the any part of this ESC touching the carbon frame make sure that the heat shrink is nice and and covered over your ESC okay that's looking pretty good there so now I have enough slack there to get to my negative terminal cleaned off the tip again and I'm gonna go ahead and solder down this part and you want to heat up the wire first it's kind of sliding away from me right here this build surface is nice but it's not really made for soldering up quads the best stuff to use is that silicon rubber mat this is more of a hobby mat and it will burn if you touch your soldering iron to it so sorry about the solder off the screen right there so now that one's all good and you just want to take a look at your work after you're done bring it up close and look at all your slaughters make sure they're nice and shiny and toggle on each wire before you settle on any salt or job so now I just twisted that up a little bit take out some of that slack and now I can put some heat-shrink on there I'm just gonna take a little closer look if you have them like a magnifying glass with a light on it that helps a lot those look pretty good so now I can go ahead and grab some heat-shrink and if you're looking for what size heat-shrink this is 3/4 inch slides just over this arm I love the way the shape of this is on the end of this quad just trim it off about half inch or so that way you can kind of see what this ESC is and you slide it right on like that hit it with a heat gun and you'll be ready to go there just make sure you heat it up all the way around top and bottom so it stays in place if you want to get extra fancy you could put a little tiny piece of VHB right underneath your ESC and that'll really hold it in place now your next step is going to be to go ahead and pretend your motor tabs and it doesn't matter which motor wire you put on there don't worry about these these don't have to be in any particular order like the other side did so this will be a lot easier to go ahead and set up now we're good there we can go ahead and start turning up our motor wires and get those trimmed out and ready to solder onto the ESC s now before you do that you're gonna go ahead and put the rest of your es es on and go ahead and you can put a little piece of electrical tape or you can do your heat shrink however you like to put them on the quad frame and just go ahead and work on trimming all your wires off and making sure that those just they reach just past each tab so we're gonna run this one just like this and this one here and you're gonna trim that black wire that little tiny black wire off you see the black wires not on there so I did remove that wire you can also use your soldering pen to remove that ground wire on the ESC you can see I just have that white wire there now so black and red power cables can go ahead and crimp those off just about like that and now you're gonna pretend all these and once you get all these soldered up we can move on to the next part and you can catch up with the video at that point now one tip I wanted you guys to see is that this plastic actually the heat shrink around the es es actually kind of come over the motor tab so make sure you take a pair of snips and just go ahead and snip that away from the ESC tab you don't want any of that plastic over top see how that kind of stopping my solder from going onto the pad so make sure you trim that back before you add your solder on to these es es because you get kind of a half solder going on there and that's really important to cover this whole tab with solder so you get a proper connection coming from your motor to the ESC that's looking pretty good right there now this one's good to go now go ahead and grab your first motor that's going to be a clockwise motor that turns to the right and we're gonna put that on the right rear this one right here it's gonna sit right on top of that just like that we're gonna trim these wires back to fit right on the ESC tabs now go ahead and grab some Loctite and we're gonna use a little dab of Loctite on these motor bolts I'll go ahead and shake up the bottle it's always a good idea to shake up your Loctite bottle one tiny little dab and go ahead and wipe it off on your fingers and a towel or your jeans or whatever you like and make sure that wire harness is facing toward the flight controller and now you can go ahead and feed that screw through and make sure it's hitting the threading correctly and you're not stripping it out and just be really careful when you're tightening this down and you don't really need to do it super tight right now we're gonna make sure that that's dead center right there so when this collar turns it's not rubbing on the frame turn this motor later when you get all your bolts on and make sure that it turns freely if it feels like it's hugging or snagging at all that means that your your bottom part is not lined up properly what's the hole in the bottom of the frame that's gonna be very important so now we're to the part where you guys can again trim your motor wires and I usually do it just past the tabs some people will do it right on top of it but I like to have just a little bit of slack there in case I need it in case I screw up that's very important so now you're gonna go ahead grab your crimpers again and your wire trimmers just pull a tiny little tab off tiny tiniest bit off you don't need these super long if they're too long you can I'm back you know when I'm running forward and making contact with another part of the ESC or one of the chips that's looking pretty good right there now we can't in those up and we can start soldering them down to the tabs now at this point in the build if you have a pair of tweezers and again I got these from Harbor Freight they're awesome and just go ahead and get the right angle on this and you can kind of bend the wire with your fingers a little bit to the direction that you're trying to solder it because the wires always seem to fight the opposite direction of where I'm trying to put them sort of get them straightened up with that tab and take your time right here if you can get the right angle on this the angle is everything when you're making a solder because the biggest point of putting the wire down to the tab is the fact that the wire itself makes contact with the tab if it's sitting at an angle up you're not making a good contact with the tabs you want it to be sitting absolutely flat now go ahead and apply heat it's about the wire and the tab and you should have a nice shiny solder now you can go ahead and do the next one just be as patient as you can with your tweezers because sometimes they seem to go the direction that they would like to not necessarily the direction you would like them to go and again my quad is moving a little bit if you can secure your quad down with some helping hands that always helps too and there my wires just a little bit long so it's kind of pushing the quad back so I really need to just bend this wire back just a little bit first just like that and then apply my heat so it's not pushing back on itself and just long enough so that you get both pieces of metal hot the wire and the tab and remember don't overheat these tabs because the tabs will fall off of the es es as well and then you'll ruin your es C so pretty important that you put it on there just the right amount of time to make your connection you see it see it start to kind of both of them start to gel together and you should be good and you can go ahead and tuck these wires down a little bit give them a little bit of a tug make sure that they're on the tabs nice and firm and so we're done with the first motor now we can do the other four and we're almost to the point where we're ready to start building our stack this is looking pretty good here and just you know zoom into these with a magnifying glass and check out your solder is to make sure they look good cold solder is always a bad day now you can go ahead and take your last bolt there and you're gonna put Loctite on that don't forget to grab your lock tight shake it up again put a little tiny dab and I always wipe it off because you don't want this running up inside the motor stator that's gonna be a very bad thing for your motor and go ahead and put these bolts in and it's very important these are larger style nuts believe these are in fours make sure that the O screws make sure that you don't over tighten these you will strip the crap out of the motor so just get it in till it's firm and then back off so now we're good to go I spun that motor one time just to make sure that it's not hugging on the inside that's looking pretty good now we can do these other motors all right now you should be to the point where you have all of your motors soldered up to each of EDS sees your heat shrink is on now we can start working on our stack in the middle again and now it's really starting to look like a quad this is so cool and the nice thing about these es es is the fact that if you blow one out you can get another one and just put it on instead of a four one it also makes the stack a little bit shorter in the middle so we have more room in the middle to add different things like our VTX and external VTX and our receiver and everything looks pretty good here just go over all your solder jobs again and and take a close look at what you did worst thing in the world is a bad solder joint on a quadcopter alright let's go ahead and mount the camera to the sidewalls just go ahead and grab those little tiny Phillips head screws and we're gonna run those through the side plate and it's gonna make contact with the side of the camera this little tiny slot right there go ahead and tighten that up on one side and then you're gonna do the same thing on the other side just like that so now we can go ahead and push this down into the slots and it's a little bit tight right here in between these Lumina standoffs and where your cameras gonna fit in so with a little bit of force I was able to get this down in there you can move each side back and forth a little bit until the camera mounts slide down into the bottom of the frame slot you can see that right there you just kind of wiggle it on each side once you get it to where you think it's seated then you can start to really rock it back and forth a little bit until it starts to slide down into the slots and if you need to put a little extra pressure you can put it down on the bench and really put some heavy pressure on it and it should snap into place just make sure you're not pinching any of your wires behind there now go ahead and grab your snips and snip off that little connector I know that looks crazy but we're gonna slaughter these down to the video import the video ends where your camera's going to go video out is where your VTX wires are gonna go now we're gonna go ahead and tin up these wires now once you have your wires tinned up you're going to go ahead and clean off the tip again and your video signal wire is gonna go right on this tab right here and just kind of come off this direction with your pin usually works the best and we're putting these wires on from the inside not facing coming from the outside because if you have tree branches fly past this flight controller you don't want any of those wires getting snagged so you know a lot of times I have my wires facing from the inside out just like this apply a little bit heat there and if you don't get it the first time if you don't like the way it looks like this wire slid on me a little bit right there just being a little bit of a pain and that could work but I don't like the way that looks so I'm a perfectionist so I'm gonna make sure it's on there right and though those two look good just give it a little bit of a tug with your fingers so now we've got our ground cable there and the markings on this board are really bad so hopefully this video is helping you guys it's really hard to see and again I'm not really happy with the way that first solder looked never hurts to redo things now we're gonna do the positive wire let me just make sure you clean off your tip and sometimes you don't have to with these small solder jobs but you always want to work with a clean solder tip which makes everything flow so to speak it looks pretty good back it up just a little bit and make sure we're not making any connections with those chips directly behind those tabs very important you don't want to bridge any solder up to anything else because you'll short things out so now we're ready to grab the VTX your 600 milliwatt VTX just gonna go ahead and unplug it for now and you can set that to the side because what we're gonna do now is we're gonna tin these up on this side right here and we're gonna put these down on the video outside of the flight controller and we'll just zoom in a little bit there for you we're gonna go ahead and put some solder down on these tabs that Vee marks where your video signal wire goes that's gonna be that white wire like I said before sometimes it gets yellow sometimes it's white depending on the company that made it but usually the signal wires are always white or yellow so now I'm good there I can go ahead and bring in my first wire and you can just barely see these markings on this board again I'm not really impressed with the silkscreen job they have before their labeling there's not a whole lot of room there so now we're gonna go ahead tin up these three wires just put a little bit of tiny bit of solder don't need a whole lot of heat for these tiny wires just momentarily and we should be good to go there so I'm going to take that off and now we can zoom back into where we were before and we're gonna do the first wire we're gonna work from the outside in like I generally like to do and you could run it that way if you want to be fancy you could bring it around this direction and just make sure that the wire is nice and flat on the tab that's the trick right here you don't want to touch those two chips that's why the TS 100 is a really nice soldering iron because the tip on this is smaller it works great for these small tabs and man you need some really small fingers to work with some of this stuff now the way this next tab is I don't want it touching those two yellow chips the orange chips just above that so I might bring this one actually this direction so I'm just going to put this one on there like this my positive wire my power wire that way it's not going to touch those two chips you don't want make any contact there and I can just kind of bend the wire back just like that and tuck it over that should be fine just one of them would be okay in this instance now we're gonna do the ground wire just enough heat there that looks pretty good so now you should have your video transmitter wire harness all soldered up to video out and you should be good to go there now we can plug it into the VTX now we're gonna work on soldering up the receiver and if you're using an XM plus this is the way you're gonna do that and we'll go ahead and plug this in make sure that the teeth are lining up the right way in my early days of building bent those posts on the inside and that man that's a pain to bend those back so now go ahead and grab your xm+ and I'm gonna show you the way that this hooks up because most of you guys are using this receiver you have signal here you have five volt and you have ground right there on the outside so that's the way that the wires are going to solder up and I just have an extra piece of camera wire you can just trim off the end there and you're gonna tin up both sides of this wire just go ahead and trim off the other and like to make add a little bit of length on there so I can put it anywhere inside the frame I want so that's not too short you could probably make it about three inches would be totally fine just go ahead and snip those off with your fingernails I don't have much fingernails but now we're ready to tin those wires up so go ahead and take your soldering iron now and just put some heat to each wire and I love these small wires they they heat up really quickly you don't have to have it there very long and those are good to go now the next thing you can do is go ahead and do the other side use your helping hands again snip off each of these wires and these look a little bit long so we're gonna actually go back later and we're gonna trim these down a little bit they don't need to be quite this long you should never ever solder wires to a flight controller or your ESC or your motor wires or anything on the quad that are a little bit too long always trimming them back is a good thing too short would be bad so just about like this is just about the perfect length and those will make contact nicely now we can take this off and just go ahead if you have these three wires go ahead and trim them back on the other side now this one's gonna look good that should be okay maybe maybe just a little more there okay and now what you can do just go ahead and take it off and twist it up with your fingers and this is gonna clean up a lot of the wire sort of floating around inside your frame this will make things a little tidier I usually do this and now we're going to go ahead and put the wire back in and we're gonna saute up our first wire which is gonna be the signal wire and I'll show you where that goes so go ahead and take a receiver and put it in the clamp and your first wire is going to be signal that's gonna be the farthest one over toward that gold button on the very top the gold button is your bind button that's what you're gonna press down to bind up your receiver to your Terrenas radio your free sky radio now you're gonna do your power wire should be your 5 volt wire right there and your ground wire the last wire alright so now we have our wires soldered up to the receiver those look pretty good you can kind of give them a tug a little bit and make sure they're seated properly and now we can go ahead and solder on our receiver to the board we're going to bridge the 5 volt tabs there from the center tab over to the left so if you're doing DSM X you want to bridge from the center tab to the right side right there so we're doing 5 volt for our frsky x m+ so we're gonna get a little bit of solder on both sides and if you don't have your pin exactly flat it makes it really hard and I don't think I have my pin exactly flat so it's requiring a little more solder I got a huge blob going there so that actually worked out now I have both of those Bridge to 5 volt that's looking pretty good now we have the signal tab positive and negative there all right so now we can take the first wire which would be our signal wire and that's that yellow one again that's our s bus signal go ahead and slaughter that down to that tab and just move your iron away from the flight controller and down so you don't get any shark fins above your yourse otters that always works out great if you pull away from where you're soldering with the pin just apply a little bit of heat there make sure both surfaces are hot and pull away no shark fins that's looking pretty good if you get a shark fin which is gonna be a pointy solder on top of the solder you can kind sometimes just take a little tool and a little snips and snip off the top end of it but you have to be very careful when you're doing that you don't want random metal parts like you see on my mat floating around on top of your flight controller that can cause a short you'll have it Brown out of something somewhere another important tip guys is to spin your motors with your hands after you do a build to make sure that none of the bolts on your mat ended up in your motors because the first time you go out to fly you could have a burnout motor because you had some type of bolt sitting on the bench go up inside your motors so where you just want it'll just flop over on the ground the motor won't turn properly so now we have everything hooked up there it looks pretty good double-check your work again as always make sure everything is nice and shiny we have signal 5 volt and our ground wire right there on that rail we're good to go now now I took the receiver wires back off just to show you this part this is the most important part make sure that this is bridge right here P&S needs to be bridge not rx1 but pns right there otherwise your s bus is not going to show up as active inside the receiver tab so it will look like your receivers not working just make sure those two tabs are bridged and you'll be good to go inside bethe flight so now you can go ahead and grab that black plate that they gave you it's sort of a coated PCB they put some kind of black coating over top of it maybe they it just to keep things from touching any metal to metal there and what this is is basically it's just an upper level for your VTX and possibly your receiver if you can fit it all there just go ahead and take your first stand off nut and go ahead and lock that side down and I usually do the opposite side next just go ahead and put that nut down just hand tight for now you don't need to use a wrench on these by the way I usually don't use a wrench on these type of nuts because I don't want to break off any chips anywhere on the board I made that mistake before with flight controllers if they get too tight sometimes it might take out like a little sort of a couple millimeter turn with a little tiny pair of pliers and needle nose pliers to loosen one of these little nuts but if you hand tighten them they usually can be taken back off by hand which is kind of nice so that looks pretty good now we're getting to the point where we can get our VHB go ahead and grab your VHB and you're gonna trim off a piece of VHB and probably the smaller the better because you might end up removing this VTX later it sticks really really good to this top plate so VHB is awesome sticking to plastic try not to touch the sticky side with your fingers because it gets it gets not very sticky really quickly when you touch it it loses all of its adhesiveness for some reason it's not a word is he at he's itness okay so I've got my MMC X connector on there I'm just gonna twist the VTX wires up and sort of tidy these up in the back of the quad back here so they're not floating out into my props and if you want to get really fancy you could take a tiny little zip tie and just kind of zip tie these on the back but you know what I'm gonna end up using a little bit of extra slack because I'm gonna bend this around the other way like this and you're going to take one of your longer zip ties and put around this top plate and the VTX itself in between that led and your push button for your channels and bands and secure it down go ahead and grab your razor blade razor blades are a great way to get this backing off this VHB because this VHB is kind of the backing is kind of a pain to get off without a razor blade but then again I don't have fingernails so I'm giving myself a little more slack here trying to figure out where I'm gonna put my wires up might have it right there just like that just gently push it down because this VHB stuff is super tacky guys it's not coming off unless you really hit like a brick wall so now I'm gonna do the same thing with my receiver and we've got to figure out where we're gonna put the receiver if there was enough room on top of that plate right there I might do that but I don't think there's enough room left so what we might have to do there is facing the antennas toward the back of the quad mount this receiver to the top plate with a piece of VHB in a zip tie around the whole thing okay I'm just gonna get it on there right and then we're gonna peel off the back of that and you're not gonna put that top plate on until you bind up your receiver to your quad to your to your radio very important don't assemble the whole thing and put your heat shrink over top of your antenna wires just yet because you need to bind up the quad to your radio once I get that off I can grab my top plate and here's the top plate it's gonna go on just like this you got two little zip tie holes at the very back for bringing your antenna up and around and that'll hold your hands in it up while you're flying and keep it out of the props and also keep it further away from your power source and I thought this might have fit on this shelf down below but it's just not gonna fit down there you could probably try to do that but it's just not going to be very secure right here it just almost fits right there almost but that's not gonna work and sometimes you can put it down here at the bottom but what we're gonna end up having to do here is put it on the bottom side right about there and we're gonna run these antenna wires through that hole right there that first hole and then we're gonna run some zip ties on each side of that to keep these antennas up off the top of the quad now there's a couple ways you can mount your receiver if you wanted to mount your receiver underneath that top plate you could run your antennas off the sides of the arms like some people do with a zip tie on each side but in this particular configuration this will be fine because we can still get a GoPro up front and the receivers wires are tall enough to get a maximum signal back to your quad that's looking pretty good there so now we can go ahead and just run a zip tie around right here and secure this if you have a smaller zip tie it will probably work a little bit better than the one they included in the kit this one's just a little bit large for this but it's gonna work on my build today I'm just gonna cut hide that larger part underneath the frame and once I get that nice and tight I couldn't sniff that off and put that to the side and now I should be good to go there now I can bind up my radio now once you have your radio bound up to your receiver you can go ahead and put this top plate on with those four bolts you should be okay to do that at this point just go ahead and fasten those down and don't over tighten them because you can definitely kind of strip these standoffs you don't want to strip those those are aluminium posts so that's looking pretty good there now we have a quad that we're almost ready to race that's awesome so next thing we're going to do is we're going to take one of those long zip ties and we're gonna run it up through the bottom of the plate right here and just take a look at the way this works out make sure that you don't have any wires underneath this zip tie when you're bringing this around and what you can do to make this a little bit easier on yourself is you can run this through first and then worry about the antenna going through the loop later and this zip tie right here is just gonna help you keep your antenna up into position not down it's going to keep it up into position when you're flying it's not gonna flop backwards and that's what these two slots are back here for so we're gonna tighten that up not all the way down because we don't want it sitting on the quad frame we wanted to have enough slack that it goes back but and still you can bend it back with your fingers just a little bit but it's basically like a little harness for your antenna to sit upright just like that and now that's good to go we can just bend that back a little more and that's awesome that little guy is ready to rock and I'm just gonna jump forward here this is where the quad has finished up but I want to make sure I had this part in here somewhere because some of you guys are gonna want to know what this quad weighs and its 278 grams which is lighter than the Tarot that I built earlier on the channel 433 grams this is an awesome race quad or freestyle quad so very competitive rate and also super competitive price but awesome that this thing weighs 278 grams that is a really competitive wait for this quad so the next step is to go ahead and secure Antonis off the top of the quad right here and grab your long zip ties and you're gonna put them through just like this pull your antennas back away from your zip tie so you're not pinching your antennas and go ahead and pull it down just like this and seat the very top part of the zip tie on the top of the quad just like that and it should face out this direction now we're going to do the other side and you want to have it sitting up like this and come around this direction just like that so we're gonna put this bottom part through here we're gonna come up and around and through the receiver tab of the zip tie and we're gonna push it down until it stops clicking and with a little bit of heat we're gonna put some heat shrink over top of those and run those antennas up so just like this and we're gonna snip these off just above where the white tips are the white tips is where most of your signal comes from back to your radio okay snip that off and I usually like to make them about the same length just for you know cosmetic reasons those look pretty good there now I can bend them out just a little more with my fingers when I apply heat to them you can also get a little bit of a better curve on there so go ahead and grab your Harbor Freight heat shrink it's double checking those motors to make sure that everything is moving around good okay so we got four of those and if you have the longer stuff you can order off Amazon the particular size that you need it's nice because you can just use one long piece over top of these pieces of heat shrink but Harbor Freight cuts them into individual sections probably mainly for automotive stuff not for what we're doing really but two pieces on there will be just fine on each side now go ahead and grab your other antenna and put that white part up at the very top kind of pinch that down a little bit with your finger run it through your zip tie it make sure that the antenna stays all the way up to the top make sure it doesn't get scrunched down toward the bottom of your zip tie you're putting your heat shrink over if it's grabbing too much you need just a little bit larger piece of heat shrink it's the small stuff but the larger size in that first so now that looks pretty good I'm gonna go ahead and move my Anton out of the way so I don't torch my antenna and new guys if you're watching this probably use a heat gun for this direct heat is something that don't really recommend when you're working with quads just be super careful if you're experienced with torches you're probably fine that's looking pretty good there now our antennas are just about done and I can kind of bend those to the direction I want them away from each other so I get a little bit better signal there and now we have a finished race quad I can just tilt my camera a little more and we should be ready to plug in a battery guys and get this guy out in the field we're definitely going to do some flight tests with this one and I'm gonna show you how this flies I'm super excited that they actually did a race quad for $99 that will run 5s this is awesome and if these motors can hang out with 5s we're gonna find out or not they might blow out and hopefully they have the right motors on here for a 5s setup if not I would definitely upgrade these to the newer that believe there's a rs2 22:06 motors from Emax so if you're looking for an immediate upgrade that's gonna be awesome for these now they do give you the props and I'm gonna show you how the props go on there these are those Jim fan props very important that you put the props on the right direction I'm only showing you this right now because some of you don't know this information now this is a left turn prop you can tell by the front leading edge that it turns that direction the higher edge it's going to be the direction of travel it's gonna turn to the left so this is going to go on the front left like this by the front right motor it's gonna turn left and this is your other left turn you see the trailing edge there it's the sharper edge on the backside and now your right turn prop it's gonna go around this way you see that leading edge right there see how it's sort of kicked up in the front the trailing edge is lower that's gonna turn right around like that so I always say right rear right rear is turn right turn rear RRR and then directly opposite of the right turn is the other right turn prop so this is the layout for your propellers and go ahead and put your prop nuts on and you're not gonna do this you're not gonna put the props on until you're ready to take it outside and line-of-sight flight test it if you're working with beta flight indoors very important for the new guys don't fire this up on the bench with a battery and plug it into beta flight while the props are on I've had people for years past to have these fly off the bench and hit them so you don't want a 5-inch flying at you full throttle on accident it's a very bad day people get cut to pieces with these quads so they're very dangerous when you first take this outside to fly it make sure that double sure that you fly this line-of-sight first and not with your goggles on because chances are if you're a new builder the first time you flight this you fly this you might have one of the motor directions wrong and something could be terribly wrong and like I said it can fly across a you know a field and hit your car or it can fly into a tree or hit you or someone else so be super careful when you're first maiden flight and a lot of times I just kind of hover closely to the ground if it comes up in a hover the first time you get it out there you've done everything right and one other thing I'm gonna recommend to you guys is that you get a smoke stopper off of Amazon before you finish this build when you're finally finished with it before you plug in the battery for the first time make sure that you put a smoke stopper on that X 2:30 in the back between your battery and the quad because that's really gonna save you if you have a short the light is gonna light up it's gonna let you know you have a short somewhere which means you have some tabs touching and I don't use the battery pads that come along with it the rubber battery I always use a piece of velcro on the bottom that keeps the battery snug to the bottom of the quad better for me it'll have batteries flying off we'll put our strap around just like that and there's your port for beta flight right there USB port on this side you have the button for your VTX for changing bands and channels right there you should be able to see the LED and push your capacitor up inside there just a little bit in the back and that should be just fine right there and no need to really run a zip tie on those you can just let that hang out right there we have plenty of clearance with the props and they wants to put the battery wires down through here that looks like the way this frame is designed but I'm not totally sure about that I'm thinking that this might work out better around the arm and I probably wouldn't have it hanging out in there I don't like the way that looks so I'm actually gonna run it on the outside of that clamp and just to the side I don't really want it touching that thinner carbon because you could actually have that carbon shear through the battery wire with all the vibration that happens on these quads so having it down come down on that fatter part of the carbon it's going to be better it's not gonna be cutting through your wires and the reason we're putting a zip tie here guys is because you absolutely want to tie this off to something besides having it just free you know sitting free off the back of the quad if your battery flies off it's going to yank it off of your esc or your pdb flight controller it's going to rip those tabs right off your flight controller and you're gonna have to buy a whole new flight controller for your quad so very important if you're using four and one es es same thing you're going to zip tie off the battery cable to the arm of the quad this is looking pretty good I'm so stoked that we have a quad now the S 225 is awesome mine works I did plug it in and now I have a quad that's working and by the way make sure that you bridge those tabs on the bottom the flight controller for your VTX to get it up past five volt like I showed you earlier in the video also a tip for the new guys if you're going to test out your motor direction I usually use a little like a something like a little 3-inch prop something like this it can free spin don't put the nut on top of it if it flies off no big deal it's usually not gonna go very far might go a couple feet up in the air but just gently test your motors inside bethe flight make sure that they're going the right direction and the reason I leave the nut off is because that when I push the throttle back down and bethe flight to zero the prop comes to a slow stop instead of a quick stop if you tighten down the nut they stop quicker if you don't have the nut on there they kind of just loosely spin around the motor shaft and you can see which direction the prop is going so that's how we do that but thanks for watching this bill guys I think this one turned out pretty darn good you can check out the link down below five stars for this quad and the 5s is awesome so I can't believe they have a 5s quad for $99 just absolutely crazy and this one actually looks pretty good so for sure grab one of these snatch one of these up at the link down below because these are gonna go pretty fast for 4 5 s and $99 but I'm gonna take this one outside guys and we'll do some line-of-sight flying awesome thanks for hanging out again I'm Justin Davis peace peace out I will see you on the next one take care guys honeyBun grazie the rainbow really really smooth I can't wait to fu do this I got five that would be crazy that was really good

How to build a Race Quad. Step by step build video. Full Build video from start to finish. Justin Davis shows you everything you need to start building and finish your first race drone.

Build Kit Links below

Skywatch.Ai – On Demand Drone Insurance. $10 per hour.
Download the App here :

Buy the 5S S225 Race Quad Kit
Link here :
USE COUPON CODE : IBXPXH192H

Suggested Receiver
Frsky XM+ Link here :

Suggested Batteries
5S GNB 1300mah Battery :
4S 1300mah Battery :

TS100 Portable Soldering Iron :
60/40 Solder :
$1 Flux paste :
$20 Silicone Soldering Mat :
Wire Tweezers :
$5 – 520 piece Heat Shrink Deal :
$5 Wire Strip Tool :
$5 Wire Snips :

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Justin’s Pick’s :

My Hobby Radio of choice : Frsky TARANIS X7 below.
Black :
White :
New Blue Taranis X7S version here :

Carbon fiber X7S :

My favorite race quad battery.
Tattu 4S 1300mah Lipo Battery here :

My favorite micro brushless quad :
Link here :

Economy priced 4S 1300mah battery here :

My current favorite 5″ race quad : EMAX HAWK 5
Link here :

My drone landing pad here :

My favorite Fpv Goggles are the Fatshark HD3’s here :
Link here :

Economy $50 pair of googles that have two diversity antennas.
Great for the price.

Latest up to date RC and FPV Specials :
Link here :

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37 comments on “HOW TO BUILD A RACE QUAD – 5S for $99! – S225 Beginner Build Video

  1. Alisson Teixeira

    Hi, I just saw an upgraded version of this package to get instead of 2300kv a 2600kv motor. Can I use the same battery for it? Anything needs to change in order to handle this motor upgrade and have the same fly time???

    Reply
  2. chris miller

    Thank you for the tutorial! Just getting into FPV trying to find a great build to start with for some cinematic flights (and just some fun acrobatics) take care and good luck everyone

    Reply
  3. Mert Bağcı

    Hi justin! I am just getting into the hobby, and your channel is the one guide i follow for all of my needs. Thank you! Iflight long range or building a long range mini quad like it is my current goal!

    Reply
  4. Felix Harkness

    My camera didn't work. Took me a while to figure it out, but I had to wire the signal (yellow wire) to the middle pad on the video in (unlike the right pad in your video). Maybe I missed something or maybe its changed or something? But the wiring diagram says to do it and it worked for me. It looks like my kit came with a different camera (it has 4 pins, rather than 3 in your video) so maybe it's something to do with that?
    Anyway, thanks for a really great video!! Loving building my first drone 😀

    Reply
  5. james gordon

    Justin. I have been trying to become a patreon for a while now. PayPal isn't in gauging. I have tried on another channel as well. Same problem.
    Is this something that can be fixed? Thank you.

    Reply
  6. Mike V

    Were you able to find a link to the pin out for the Omnibus f4 sd flight controller? I am using DSMX I know about the 3.3v bridge is there more that needs to be bridged?

    Reply
  7. mattcella74

    Hi Justin,
    compliment for your channel! After seeing your video I bought the skystar S225, it's my first racing quad and I hope to assemble it correctly … until now everything is ok 🙂
    I would like to ask you a question: what kind of capacitor should I buy to mount it on the battery cables?

    Thanks for your suggestions
    Matteo from Italy

    ps: sorry for the automatic translation

    Reply
  8. Luis Romero

    Hi Justin, you camera conection in the fc is wrong, I builded my stx225 as you show it, and when I turned on my quad, camera didn't have signal because is: Ground, video, positive (from left to rigth)

    Reply
  9. Matthieu Pelatan

    Thanks for the very nice video. Not sure to understand you right when you say we need to solder the 2 boot buttons at the beginning. Why are you not doing it in the video? Is it optional? When is it then required?

    Reply
  10. Mark Linder

    Thanks for doing this video. Being a noob and no included instructions, I would be lost without this. All has gone well except frsky r-xsr isn’t being seen in BF. It is correctly bound, and I bridged the 5volt and P/S tabs as per the video, but no sticks movement registering. Can you suggest what I do to fix this? Thanks again for this helpful video.

    Reply
  11. Shane McCallum

    Hi justin thanks for video i do apriciate your time. This is my first build and i am a newbie. All went great accept in your vid on my board the video signal and ground to the camera were opsite to your video. Had me stumped for a few days know. Not sure if you had an issue getting your video going but the way it shows is incorrect. On my board anyway. Thanks again for video. Keep up great work.

    Reply
  12. Lawrence Needham

    Hey great video man! (seriously considering ordering this quad) I'm new to the FPV scene and just had some questions.

    Firstly does any fpv goggles work with this VTX?

    Do you know of any tutorial videos for beta flight?

    p.s. if anyone has any info on this feel free to reply

    Reply
  13. GraydogzFPV

    Hi Justin, just want to check if this quad will work with my flysky receiver for i6x?
    Also for first race quad would you recommend this one or the tero q215? I'm not worried about building.

    Reply

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